What is kundan jewellery?

Kundan is one of the oldest forms of Indian jewellery making, originating in Rajasthan. Uncut gemstones or glass stones are set in a pure gold frame using lac (natural resin) as the base. The front features stones while the reverse is often decorated with meenakari enamel work.

What is the difference between kundan and polki jewellery?

Kundan uses glass or synthetic stones set in gold foil, making it more affordable. Polki uses real uncut, natural diamonds in their raw form — each stone is unique and irregular. Polki is significantly more expensive and is considered the most premium traditional style.

What is temple jewellery?

Temple jewellery originates from Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, inspired by ornaments on deities in South Indian temples. It features gods, goddesses, peacocks, and lotus motifs in heavy 22K gold with ruby and emerald accents. It was originally made for Bharatanatyam dancers.

Which Indian jewellery style has the lowest making charges?

Machine-made or Italian-style jewellery has the lowest making charges at around 400-700 rupees per gram. These pieces are precision-crafted, lightweight, and modern in design. Handmade styles like kundan (1,200-2,500/g) and filigree (1,500-3,000/g) cost more due to skilled labour.

What is filigree (tarakasi) jewellery?

Filigree is a delicate art form from Odisha (Cuttack) where hair-thin gold or silver wires are twisted and soldered into intricate lace-like patterns. It is a UNESCO-recognized craft tradition. Despite looking intricate, filigree pieces are extremely lightweight.

What is antique finish gold jewellery?

Antique or matte finish jewellery is regular gold treated with chemical oxidation to create a darkened, vintage look. It highlights intricate carvings by adding depth and shadow. It can be polished back to bright gold anytime and requires low maintenance.

Design Guide

Indian Jewellery Design Styles

Q: What is meenakari jewellery?

Meenakari is the art of enamelling — fusing coloured glass onto gold using heat. It creates vivid patterns in red, green, blue, and white on the gold surface. It is often done on the reverse side of kundan pieces, making both sides equally beautiful.

India has some of the richest jewellery traditions in the world. Each region, each community has developed its own distinct style over centuries. Here are the most important ones.

Temple Jewellery

Tamil Nadu, Karnataka

Inspired by the ornaments on deities in South Indian temples. Features gods, goddesses, peacocks, and lotus motifs in heavy, ornate gold. Originally made for Bharatanatyam dancers.

Characteristics

Heavy, layered pieces
Coin (kasumala) and mango (manga malai) motifs
Usually 22K gold with ruby and emerald accents
Matte or antique finish common

Popular Pieces

Long haars, chokers, jhumkas, vanki (armlets), oddiyanam (waist belt)

Making Charges

₹800-1,500/g

Kundan

Rajasthan (Jaipur, Bikaner)

One of the oldest forms of jewellery making in India. Uncut gemstones (polki) or glass stones are set in a gold frame using lac (natural resin) as the base. The front is stunning; the back is enamelled (meenakari).

Characteristics

Flat, uncut stones set in pure gold foil
Lac-based setting — lightweight despite looking heavy
Often combined with meenakari on the reverse
Red, green, white stones are classic

Popular Pieces

Bridal sets, maang tikka, nath, chokers, rani haar

Making Charges

₹1,200-2,500/g

Meenakari

Rajasthan (Jaipur)

The art of enamelling — fusing coloured glass onto gold using heat. Creates vivid patterns in red, green, blue, and white on the gold surface. Often done on the reverse side of kundan pieces.

Characteristics

Vibrant, painted-like colours on gold
Extremely skilled craft — each colour requires separate firing
Heat-resistant enamel fused into grooves
Red + green + blue + white is the classic palette

Popular Pieces

Bangles, pendants, earrings, rings — both sides are equally beautiful

Making Charges

₹1,000-2,000/g

Polki

Mughal tradition, Rajasthan

Uses uncut, natural diamonds (polki) in their raw form — not machine-cut or polished. Each stone is unique. Set in gold using kundan technique. The most premium and expensive traditional style.

Characteristics

Real uncut diamonds — each stone is one-of-a-kind
Irregular shapes add to the charm
Set in 22K or 24K gold foil
Often paired with emeralds and rubies

Popular Pieces

Heritage bridal sets, statement necklaces, passa (head ornament)

Making Charges

₹2,000-5,000/g + stone cost

Filigree (Tarakasi)

Odisha (Cuttack), Andhra Pradesh

Delicate, lace-like patterns made by twisting and soldering fine gold or silver wire. Extremely intricate and time-consuming. A UNESCO-recognized craft tradition.

Characteristics

Hair-thin wires twisted into patterns
Extremely lightweight despite intricate look
Popular in both gold and silver
Often features floral and paisley motifs

Popular Pieces

Earrings, pendants, brooches, decorative items

Making Charges

₹1,500-3,000/g (due to extreme labour)

Antique / Matte Finish

Pan-Indian (popular in South)

Regular gold jewellery given a chemical treatment to create a darkened, vintage look. Highlights the craftsmanship by adding depth and shadow to detailed designs. Not a separate type of gold — it's a surface finish.

Characteristics

Chemical oxidation creates the aged look
Makes intricate carvings more visible
Can be polished back to bright gold anytime
Low-maintenance — doesn't need frequent polishing

Popular Pieces

Temple sets, chokers, long chains, jhumkas

Making Charges

₹800-1,500/g

Machine-Made / Italian

Modern (machine-produced)

Precision-crafted using industrial machines. Clean lines, uniform patterns, lightweight construction. Popular for daily wear and modern tastes. Includes Italian-style chains, laser-cut earrings, and hollow bangles.

Characteristics

Extremely uniform and precise
Lightweight (hollow or tube construction)
Lower making charges than handmade
Modern, Western-influenced aesthetic

Popular Pieces

Chains, bracelets, hoop earrings, sleek bangles

Making Charges

₹400-700/g

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