Reference
Jewellery Glossary
An A-Z dictionary of jewellery terms - from alloys and assaying to wastage and wholesale. Whether you're buying your first piece or building a collection, these definitions will help you speak the language of jewellery with confidence.
Alloy
A mixture of two or more metals. Pure gold (24K) is too soft for jewellery, so it is alloyed with copper, silver, or zinc to add strength and alter colour.
Anklet
An ornament worn around the ankle, known as payal or pajeb in Hindi. Traditionally made in silver, often with small bells (ghungroo) that produce a gentle sound while walking.
Assaying
The scientific process of testing a metal to determine its exact purity. In India, BIS-authorized Assaying & Hallmarking Centres perform XRF or fire assay tests on gold jewellery.
Bangle
A rigid circular bracelet, usually without a clasp. Gold bangles (kangan) are a staple of Indian bridal and everyday jewellery, often sold in pairs or sets.
Bullion
Precious metal in bulk form - bars, ingots, or coins - valued by weight and purity rather than design. Gold bullion is traded globally as an investment commodity.
Buyback
A policy where a jeweller repurchases jewellery they originally sold, typically at the prevailing gold rate minus a small deduction. Gondilal Saraf offers lifetime buyback on all hallmarked pieces.
Cabochon
A gemstone that has been polished into a smooth, rounded dome shape rather than faceted. Commonly used for opaque stones like turquoise, moonstone, and star sapphire.
Carat (Gemstone)
A unit of weight for gemstones. One carat equals 0.2 grams. Not to be confused with karat, which measures gold purity.
Casting
A manufacturing technique where molten metal is poured into a mould to create a jewellery piece. Modern jewellers use investment casting (lost-wax process) for intricate designs.
Chaandi
The Hindi word for silver. India is one of the world's largest consumers of silver, used extensively for utensils, coins, idols, and jewellery - especially anklets and toe rings.
Choker
A short necklace that sits snugly around the neck, typically 14-16 inches long. In Indian jewellery, gold chokers with temple or antique designs are popular bridal pieces.
CZ (Cubic Zirconia)
A synthetic crystalline material used as an affordable diamond substitute. CZ is optically similar to diamond but much cheaper and less hard (8-8.5 vs diamond's 10 on the Mohs scale).
Diamond
The hardest natural substance (10 on the Mohs scale), made of pure carbon crystallized under extreme pressure. Valued by the 4Cs: cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight.
Electroplating
A process where a thin layer of one metal is deposited onto another using electrical current. Gold-plated jewellery has a thin gold coating (typically 0.5-2.5 microns) over a base metal.
Emerald
A green gemstone from the beryl mineral family, known as panna in Hindi. Highly valued in Indian astrology and traditionally associated with the planet Mercury.
Engraving
The art of carving designs, text, or patterns into a metal surface using sharp tools or lasers. Used for personalisation, decorative motifs, and religious inscriptions on jewellery.
Exchange Value
The price a jeweller offers when you trade in old jewellery for new. It is based on the current gold rate and the tested purity of the old piece, minus applicable deductions.
Filigree
A delicate metalwork technique where fine gold or silver wires are twisted, curled, and soldered together to form intricate lace-like patterns. Cuttack in Odisha is famous for silver filigree.
Fineness
The purity of a precious metal expressed in parts per thousand. For example, 916 fineness means 916 parts gold per 1000 - equivalent to 22 karat.
Flush Setting
A gem-setting technique where the stone is set into a drilled hole in the metal so its surface sits level (flush) with the metal surface. Creates a sleek, modern look.
GST
Goods and Services Tax - currently 3% on gold jewellery and 5% on making charges in India. GST is added to the total invoice value at the time of purchase.
Haar
A long necklace in Indian jewellery, typically extending below the chest. Rani haar (queen's necklace) is a multi-layered long necklace popular in North Indian bridal sets.
Hallmark
An official mark stamped on gold jewellery certifying its purity. In India, BIS hallmarking is mandatory and includes three marks: the BIS logo, purity grade (e.g., 916), and HUID code.
Hand-Forged
Jewellery shaped entirely by hand using hammers, anvils, and traditional tools rather than casting or machine processes. Hand-forged pieces have a unique character and slight irregularities.
HUID
Hallmark Unique Identification - a 6-character alphanumeric code stamped on every BIS-hallmarked gold piece. Each HUID is globally unique and can be verified via the BIS Care app.
Jhumka
A traditional bell-shaped drop earring popular across India. Jhumkas range from small daily-wear pieces to elaborate bridal designs with stone work, pearls, and filigree.
Kamarband
A waist belt or chain worn around the hips, also called a belly chain. An essential part of bridal jewellery in many Indian traditions, often made in gold with dangling pendants.
Karat
A measure of gold purity on a scale of 24. 24K is pure gold (99.9%), 22K is 91.6% pure, 18K is 75% pure, and 14K is 58.3% pure. In India, 22K is the most popular for jewellery.
Kasouti
A touchstone - a flat, dark stone used by traditional Indian jewellers to test gold purity. The jeweller rubs the gold piece on the stone and applies acid to the streak to judge purity by colour.
Kundan
A traditional Indian gem-setting technique originating from Rajasthan. Uncut gemstones or glass pieces are set in gold using lac (a natural resin) as an adhesive, then enclosed with gold foil strips.
Laser Cutting
A modern technique using focused laser beams to cut or engrave metal with extreme precision. Used for intricate patterns, clean edges, and detailed textures that are difficult to achieve by hand.
Lost-Wax Casting
An ancient technique where a wax model of the jewellery piece is encased in plaster, the wax is melted away, and molten metal is poured into the cavity. Used for complex, detailed designs.
Maang Tikka
A forehead ornament that hangs from a chain attached to the hair parting. It rests at the centre of the forehead and is a key element of Indian bridal jewellery.
Making Charges
The labour and craftsmanship fee added on top of the gold value when buying jewellery. It varies by design complexity - simple bangles have lower making charges than intricate necklaces.
Mangalsutra
A sacred necklace tied by the groom around the bride's neck during a Hindu wedding. Typically a gold pendant on black beads, it signifies married status and is worn daily.
Meenakari
The art of enamelling on metal, where coloured glass paste is applied to engraved gold or silver surfaces and then fired. Jaipur is the centre of meenakari work, known for vibrant reds, greens, and blues.
Moissanite
A lab-created gemstone (silicon carbide) with brilliance and fire exceeding that of diamond. Increasingly popular as an ethical and affordable alternative to natural diamonds.
Nath
A nose ring or nose pin, an important ornament in Indian tradition. Bridal naths can be large hoops connected by a chain to the ear or hair, while everyday naths are simple studs or small rings.
Oxidised Jewellery
Silver jewellery intentionally darkened using chemical oxidation to create an antique, vintage look. The dark patina settles into the recesses, highlighting the design's texture and detail.
Payal
The Hindi term for anklet. Silver payals with ghungroo (bells) are traditional in North India, often gifted during weddings and worn as a symbol of marriage in some communities.
Polki
Uncut, natural diamonds set in gold using the kundan technique. Unlike modern brilliant-cut diamonds, polki stones retain their raw, flat shape and have a soft, antique sparkle.
Prong Setting
A gem-setting style where metal claws (prongs) grip the stone, holding it in place while exposing maximum surface area to light. The most common setting for diamond solitaire rings.
Rhodium Plating
A thin coating of rhodium (a platinum-group metal) applied to white gold or silver jewellery to enhance whiteness, add shine, and improve scratch resistance. Requires re-plating over time.
Ruby
A red gemstone from the corundum family, known as manik in Hindi. One of the most valued coloured gemstones, associated with the Sun in Indian astrology.
Sapphire
A gemstone from the corundum family, most commonly blue but available in all colours except red. Known as neelam (blue) in Hindi and linked to the planet Saturn in Vedic astrology.
Soldering
The process of joining two metal pieces using a filler metal (solder) that melts at a lower temperature. Essential in jewellery making for attaching clasps, jump rings, and design elements.
Sona
The Hindi word for gold. Gold holds deep cultural, religious, and financial significance in India - it is associated with Lakshmi (goddess of wealth) and considered auspicious for all occasions.
Sterling Silver
An alloy of 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals (usually copper). Marked as 925, it is the standard for quality silver jewellery worldwide, offering a good balance of purity and durability.
Tola
A traditional Indian unit of weight equal to approximately 11.66 grams. Gold rates in India were historically quoted per tola. Today, rates are usually quoted per 10 grams, but tola remains in common use.
Vanki
An armlet or upper-arm bracelet, traditionally V-shaped, worn on the upper arm. Popular in South Indian bridal jewellery, vanki designs often feature deities, peacocks, or temple motifs.
Vermeil
Sterling silver that has been plated with a thick layer of gold (minimum 2.5 microns, usually 10K or higher). It offers the look of gold at a lower cost, with more durability than regular gold plating.
Wastage
The percentage of gold lost during the manufacturing process - melting, filing, polishing, and finishing. Jewellers add a wastage charge (typically 3-12%) to account for this material loss.
Wholesale Rate
The price at which gold is traded between dealers and jewellers before retail markup. It is based on international spot price plus import duty, GST, and handling charges.
Still have questions? Visit Gondilal Saraf in Banda or WhatsApp us at +91 93358 78550. Our team is happy to explain any jewellery term or concept in person.