Premium Metal Guide
Platinum Jewellery
The rarest of the precious metals — denser than gold, stronger than silver, and virtually indestructible. Here is everything you need to know before buying platinum in India.
What is Platinum?
Platinum (Pt) is a dense, silvery-white precious metal that is approximately 30 times rarer than gold in the Earth's crust. It was used by pre-Columbian civilisations in South America, but was only recognised as a distinct element in 18th-century Europe. Today, South Africa produces roughly 70% of the world's platinum supply.
What makes platinum extraordinary for jewellery is its combination of properties: it is hypoallergenic (safe for sensitive skin), extremely dense (21.45 g/cm³ vs gold's 19.3 g/cm³), highly durable, and chemically inert — it does not tarnish, rust, or corrode. A platinum ring will outlast the wearer by centuries.
Unlike gold, which is alloyed down to 75% (18K) or 91.6% (22K) for jewellery, platinum jewellery is typically 90-95% pure. When you buy platinum, you are buying nearly pure metal — one of the purest forms of precious metal jewellery available.
Platinum Purity Grades
| Grade | Purity | Alloy | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pt 950 | 95.0% | 5% (Ru, Ir, Co) | International standard for fine jewellery. Most engagement rings and premium pieces. |
| Pt 900 | 90.0% | 10% (Ru, Ir, Cu) | Slightly harder than Pt 950. Popular in Japan. Good for intricate designs. |
| Pt 850 | 85.0% | 15% (Cu, Co, Pd) | Most durable grade. Used for chains, clasps, and pieces needing extra strength. |
| Pt 750 | 75.0% | 25% (various) | Rarely used for jewellery. Sometimes seen in watch cases and industrial applications. |
Note: Ru = Ruthenium, Ir = Iridium, Co = Cobalt, Cu = Copper, Pd = Palladium. These alloys improve hardness without compromising platinum's hypoallergenic nature.
Platinum vs Gold vs Silver
| Property | Platinum | Gold (22K) | Silver |
|---|---|---|---|
| Purity (jewellery) | 90-95% | 91.6% (22K) | 92.5% (Sterling) |
| Density | 21.45 g/cm³ | 19.3 g/cm³ | 10.49 g/cm³ |
| Hardness (Mohs) | 3.5 | 2.5-3 | 2.5 |
| Melting Point | 1,768°C | 1,064°C | 961°C |
| Tarnishing | Never | Never | Yes, over time |
| Hypoallergenic | Yes | Depends on alloy | Depends on alloy |
| Weight Feel | Heaviest | Heavy | Light |
| Resale (India) | 70-85% of metal | 95-98% of metal | 85-95% of metal |
| Resale Ease | Limited buyers | Any jeweller | Most jewellers |
| Cultural Significance | Modern, Western | Deep Indian roots | Pooja, traditional |
| Making Charges | 15-25% | 8-20% | 5-15% |
| Maintenance | Very low | Low | Moderate (tarnish) |
Price Per Gram Comparison
Approximate Retail Price Per Gram (INR, 2024-25)
Note: While platinum's per-gram price may appear lower than gold, the final jewellery cost is often comparable or higher because platinum is denser (same-size ring weighs 40-60% more) and carries higher making charges due to specialised craftsmanship.
Why Platinum Jewellery Costs More
Higher Density
Platinum is 11% denser than gold. A platinum ring of the same size as a gold ring weighs significantly more, meaning more raw material per piece.
Higher Melting Point
At 1,768°C, platinum requires specialised casting equipment, platinum-specific tools, and more energy. Fewer artisans are trained to work with it.
Higher Purity
Pt 950 jewellery is 95% pure platinum versus 22K gold at 91.6% or 18K at 75%. You are paying for a purer product with less alloy content.
Limited Infrastructure
In India, the platinum supply chain is much smaller. Fewer refiners, fewer manufacturers, fewer retail points. This lack of scale increases per-piece costs.
Platinum Hallmarking in India
Platinum hallmarking in India is voluntary, unlike gold hallmarking which became mandatory in 2021. The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) certifies platinum jewellery under the IS 2970 standard.
A hallmarked platinum piece will carry the following marks:
BIS Logo
Triangle mark of Bureau of Indian Standards
Pt 950 / Pt 900
Purity grade (fineness)
Assay Centre
Code of the testing laboratory
Jeweller’s Mark
Manufacturer or retailer identification
Always insist on BIS hallmarking when buying platinum. Since hallmarking is voluntary, unhallmarked pieces may not be the purity claimed. Major brands like PGI (Platinum Guild International) member jewellers always provide hallmarked platinum.
Platinum Appearance & Finish
Platinum has a distinctive, naturally white lustre that does not fade or yellow over time. Unlike white gold (which requires rhodium plating to appear white), platinum's colour is permanent. Here are the common finishes:
Polished
#E5E4E2
Mirror-bright finish. Classic and reflective.
Brushed / Matte
#C0BFBD
Soft satin texture. Modern and understated.
Patina
#A8A7A5
Natural aged finish. Develops over years of wear.
Hammered
#D1D0CE
Textured surface. Artisan and organic feel.
Platinum vs White Gold
This is the most common dilemma for engagement ring buyers. Both look similar at first glance, but the differences are significant over time.
Platinum (Pt 950)
- •Naturally white — no plating needed
- •95% pure metal, hypoallergenic
- •Heavier, more substantial feel
- •Scratches displace metal (no loss)
- •Never needs re-plating
- •Holds diamonds more securely
- •Develops attractive patina over time
- •25-40% more expensive upfront
White Gold (18K)
- •Yellow gold + rhodium plating for white look
- •75% pure gold with nickel/palladium alloy
- •Lighter weight, comfortable for large pieces
- •Scratches remove metal over decades
- •Needs re-plating every 1-3 years
- •Plating wears off, reveals yellowish tinge
- •More affordable initial purchase
- •Better resale value in India (gold market)
Is Platinum Worth It in India? An Honest Assessment
We believe in honest advice. Platinum is an exceptional metal with properties that surpass gold in many technical aspects. However, in the Indian context, there are real limitations you should understand:
Where Platinum Excels
- Unmatched durability — lasts generations without metal loss
- Best metal for diamond settings (secure prongs)
- Hypoallergenic — zero skin reactions
- Naturally white — no maintenance plating
- Prestigious and rare — a statement of refinement
- Modern, minimalist aesthetic
The Indian Reality
- Less than 2% of Indian jewellery market — very niche
- Most traditional jewellers cannot buy back platinum
- Resale value: 70-85% vs gold's 95-98%
- No cultural or religious significance in Indian traditions
- Higher making charges (15-25%) due to difficulty
- Limited design variety compared to gold
- Not accepted as collateral for gold loans
- Family elders may not recognise its value
Our recommendation: Buy platinum for its wearing qualities, not as an investment. If you want a forever piece — an engagement ring, a wedding band, or a signature accessory — platinum is unbeatable. But if you are looking for financial security, resale liquidity, or cultural value in Indian ceremonies, gold remains the wiser choice.
When to Choose Platinum
Engagement Rings
Platinum is the global standard for engagement rings. Its density holds diamonds more securely, its white colour enhances diamond brilliance, and its durability means the ring will last a lifetime without losing metal.
Modern Minimalist
If you prefer clean, contemporary designs — thin bands, geometric shapes, sleek cuffs — platinum’s cool white tone and ability to hold fine detail makes it the perfect canvas for modern jewellery.
Diamond Settings
For solitaires, tennis bracelets, and pavé settings, platinum is the superior choice. Its strength means prongs stay tight, stones stay secure, and the white metal does not cast a yellow tint on colourless diamonds.
Platinum Care & Maintenance
Platinum is one of the lowest-maintenance precious metals. It does not tarnish, corrode, or lose its colour. However, a few practices will keep your platinum jewellery looking its best:
Daily Care
- Clean with warm water and mild dish soap
- Use a soft-bristle brush for textured pieces
- Pat dry with a lint-free cloth
- Remove before heavy manual work or gym
- Store separately in a soft pouch (avoid scratching against other metals)
Professional Care
- Professional polish every 1-2 years to restore mirror finish
- Check prong settings annually if piece has diamonds
- Ultrasonic cleaning is safe for plain platinum (not for gemstones)
- Re-polishing removes the patina and restores original lustre
- Replating is never needed — platinum is naturally white
About patina: Over months and years, platinum develops a natural soft, satiny surface called patina. Many platinum enthusiasts actually prefer this look — it gives the metal a warm, lived-in character. If you prefer the mirror finish, simply have it polished.
Platinum Buying Checklist
- Insist on BIS hallmarking — Look for the BIS triangle, purity mark (Pt 950 / Pt 900), assay centre code, and jeweller's mark.
- Buy from PGI-certified retailers — Platinum Guild International members adhere to purity and craftsmanship standards.
- Get a detailed invoice — Invoice must mention platinum weight, purity grade, making charges (per gram or percentage), diamond/gemstone charges separately, and GST.
- Understand the buyback policy — Before purchasing, ask the retailer about their buyback guarantee. Not all jewellers buy back platinum.
- Compare making charges — Platinum making charges range from 15-25%. Compare across brands. High making charges significantly affect resale value.
- Check the weight — Platinum is dense. The same-looking ring will weigh 40-60% more than gold. Ensure you are charged for actual weight, not inflated figures.
- Ask for a certificate — Reputed brands provide a platinum authenticity certificate with purity details and serial number.
Platinum at a Glance
30×
Rarer than gold in Earth’s crust
95%
Pure metal in Pt 950 jewellery
1,768°C
Melting point (vs gold’s 1,064°C)
0%
Tarnishing — chemically inert